The Tastemakers Society

It’s amazing how one can be lead into the world of fashion, in life some things are passion, some things hobbies, some things are paths, others are just simply things that interest you. You learn things from trial and error, you can be self taught or school taught. To me it’s not really what you do but how you do it and the journey you took to get there. The story of Helena Fredriksson is one of many paths, hobbies and self lessons that have lead her into fashion and designing clothes. This isn’t the life and times or even the biography of Helena Fredriksson but a mere story of her life and many tidbits that make up who Helena Fredriksson is.

Name, Age, Location

Helena Fredriksson, 31 yrs, Williamsburg, Brooklyn, New York

Where did you grow up?  What was your childhood like?

I grew up in Gothenburg, Sweden in the late 70’s.  The city is a harbor city, close to nature and with a big underground music art and theater scene.  I mixed picking mushrooms and berries in the woods with existing in the city, seeing music or demonstrating against nuclear power with my parents and sister.  I spent time in the country with my grandparents or stayed in the archipelago with my best friend.  I was 9 when my brother was born and we would pull him around the yard and pretend like we were the parents.  I started a band with a friend when I was 10, I played soccer and I was very passionately active against apartheid, my class sang in the streets to collect money for the ANC and we saw Nelson Mandela on his visit to Stockholm in ‘89 after his release from prison.  A pretty amazing experience at 12 years old.

When did you arrive in NY?

In ‘96, I was 19.

You studied painting and sculpting in college, how did you make the switch over to fashion and do you still do any art?

I always made clothes since I was young, twelve or thirteen.  When we were kids my mom made clothes for my sister and me and also for herself.  For me making things was very normal, my mom made baskets my dad built things.  If you wanted something, you found out a way of making it.  So for me it was something I just learned to do.  I went thru my mom’s old fabrics and made things up, making sketches of things I wanted to make.  Then I would go to the secondhand stores and get clothes for $1, cut them up and make them into something else.  I still have some of those pieces kept.  When I went to arts school I was painting and doing a lot of photography but I was always making clothes as well.  So the switch didn’t really feel like a switch, more of a step that made sense.  I still photograph a lot, I sketch a lot, and paint sometimes.  I also see a lot of art, its one of my major sources of inspiration.  Some of the artwork that I do incorporate in my collections, in fabric prints, mood shots and brand graphics.

And when did you know fashion was it for you and not art, or is fashion just the focus now?

I don’t know if I will ever know that.  I keep trying to balance it in my head and take it as it feels right now.  I have built a small brand and I like the wholeness of that, the identity and form of the collection and concept that I created, and it feels like a form of its own art.  But I do miss the idea of making just one thing, one painting or installation that is all my vision and that’s done when its done, without the continuing work with production and orders.

Can you explain the inspiration and design concept for your fall ‘08 collection?  Did you use any specific materials or pattern cuts, etc?

The Fall/Winter 2008 collection is Retro, but modern; inspired by Japanese aesthetics with Scandinavian undertones and a taste of Europe in the 20’s.  When designing H Fredriksson Fall ‘08 collection, my main inspiration was a trip to Japan.  I saw a lot of both new and old art, culture and architecture during my weeks traveling around the country.  The attention to detail, the minimal and sparse aesthetic, the muted palate and the use of natural materials; while still keeping the work highly creative shows a strong design sense and identity that inspired me.  I saw a lot of artwork, ceramics, temples and design that pulled me into a simplified and structured aesthetic for my fall ‘08 collection.  Some cuts in the jackets and cardigans are direct influences from traditional Japanese clothing, and the color block idea in some of the pieces is based on old drawings that I saw.  The fabric print for the collection comes from an old samurai house in the mountains, it’s blackened walls worn away by the elements leaving a grey surface etched with deep black wood grains that told history and show pure beauty.

Do you usually travel to get inspiration and ideas for new collections?

Yes, it’s a very important part of my research and inspiration process.  To get away from my normal surroundings and see with new eyes is essential to my design work.

How much of growing up in Sweden has played in your design style and aesthetics?

I’m sure we all carry aesthetics from our history and culture.  I do think that the influence of Sweden; the nature, the culture, the people, is still pretty strong in my design.  It’s definitely been mixed up with New York and Brooklyn life and aesthetics after 12 years of living and working here.

How would you describe your own personal style?

Silhouettes, tailored mixed with oversized, fabrics are; silk, denim, cotton and wool in neutrals, black and graphic prints.  I always do accessories; scarves, belts, necklaces, boots and a big leather bag.

Willamsburg is a growing bubbling area in Brooklyn, what are some of your favorite spots to visit?

The new waterfront park is a face, and the farmers market in McCarren Park on Saturdays.  My favorite vintage inspiration store is Malin Landaus on N6th street and Bedford and my new favorite collective store is 5in1 on 60 N6th street.  Black Bird is good for European cafe feel, Monkey Town for food, good wine and screenings, Marlow and Sons always, Sweetwater for the backyard and watermelon salad and Hotel Delmar for a cocktail.

How do you view the differences between the western worlds fashion like the US compared to those from the east like Europe and Japan?

There’s a long history of clothing and dress aesthetics in Europe and Japan in comparison to the US, which I think influence the fashion world and thinking a lot.  The consumer values is also very different - quantity verses quality in almost the opposite in the US verses for instance the tradition in Japan.  The value more is better verses less in more changes the way consumers spend, and the way the fashion market can work.  A the same time the US market is a very strong market, which has generated the opportunity for a lot of new designers to bloom, which is really positive.  So different with pros and cons for both.

What was the last book you’ve read, movie you’ve seen, and the last time you got mad?

Last book - Strangeland by Travy Emin

Last Movie - Sunset Boulevard

Last time I got mad - how we treat our planet and each other always makes me mad….

What is something you do that makes you laugh at yourself?

When I organize things by color.

hfredriksson.com