The Tastemakers Society

His name is Andy Salzer, and Yoko Devereaux could have been a name in another lifetime for him, but as of now it’s the name of his menswear label. Sitting right in the midst of a blurred mix or more like mess of a fashion industry, Andy has given men something to actually look forward to wearing, with the proud-ness that comes with knowing you look good and different. Andy has added a little lime twist in his cocktail of menswear, he didn’t want to create what many others were and still are trying to create, he stepped into a lane of his own, finding that community of men who needed what he decided he would provide. New designs for a new generation of men is what Yoko Devereaux is, plus if you don’t really know how to say it, you know it’s cool, want to take a stab at Porsche.

Name, age, location

Andy Salzer, 34, Brooklyn, NY

Can you give us a little background on yourself?

I have zero with a capital ‘Z’ background in design. I got my bachelor’s degree in Art History at Tufts(Boston), then moved back to Seattle after graduation. The art scene was so boring in Seattle, so I opted not to pursue the use of my degree and instead opened up two retail stores, sold those after a couple of years. Then launched an ecommerce website selling clothes and moved that biz (and myself) to NYC. Right before the .com bubble burst, I was lucky enough to have sold that company, which left me exhausted and kind of open ended in regards to what I was going to do next. At the time (like 2000-2001), there was not much in the way of really interesting menswear. I was looking around my closet, at my friends closets and only seeing vintage, high end (i.e. Dior) and tons of streetwear. Since I was in Williamsburg, I was totally inspired by the movement going on here; that emerging indie scene that was riffing off of music, graf art, fashion, art, and the collision between all these different creative scenes. What I found was that the emo, art star, ‘I’m in a band’ kind of guy had nothing to wear except t-shirts, hoodies, and jeans. Plus, I wanted a whole new wardrobe and didn’t want to pay full retail. That’s how it all started with Yoko Devereaux.

How do you see Yoko Devereaux in the market? Who do you think of when creating a collection?

I’m totally of the school that guys like to still look and feel like guys when they’re getting dressed. I know I do, and I think it’s important to really tap into what guys ‘really want to wear’ instead of trying to trick them into wearing what the media says is ‘the next thing for guys.’ Unlike a lot of other fashion companies, I like to think that my customer is pretty media savvy and has a strong sense of self already. All I’m doing is complimenting my customer’s personality and helping reinforce that. The concept behind the brand and the designs are always more ‘high concept’ and the execution is definitely directed at wear ability.

I don’t buy into the idea of having ’special’ clothes for special occasions. Yoko Devereux is to be worn and worn out, so I definitely work to make sure that guys will really wear the clothes, mix it in with items they already have and try to make any piece of mine a piece that they’ll hold onto as long as they can. In terms of who that guy is, it’s definitely a weird meeting point where uptown meets downtown. The aesthetic is driven by that Williamsburg guy, but a bit more dressed up. I already have 100 pair of jeans and twice as many t-shirts, so building around that uniform is always the starting point.

What’s the meaning of your brand’s name Yoko Devereaux?

I love telling this story. In a nutshell, I was having multiple drinks with my friend Ana Matronic(Scissor Sisters). This is way before I even started thinking about launching a menswear label. The two of us got wrapped up in designer jeans from the 80’s and were throwing out brand names all over the place: Gloria Vanderbilt, Calvin Klien, even Studio 54 (yes, they had their own jean label). The idea of branding a pair of denim with a name was such a simple idea and really led customers into the idea that buying that item was buying a little piece of that person’s life. Gloria Vanderbilt (in my mind) has very old money, vacation in the hampton’s, uber waspy vibe. Totally east coast. ‘Devereaux’ is a riff of old sothern American money. And rather than keep the name as provincial as ‘Gloria Vanderbilt’, the name ‘Yoko’ steps in and speaks to a more international feel. The two names flow so nicely and totally conjures up a very international persona.

On another level referencing jean culture from the 80’s was very important to me. I vaguely remember that whole thing going on (think Brooke Shields - “nothing comes between me and my Calvin’s”). That whole craze really helped redefine the role of fashion ‘fashion designer’: a successful and esteemed American designer does not require the traditional design background (i.e. couturier). That obviously has stuck to me forever and carried over into Yoko Devereaux. Calvin Klein took an item that was cowboy wear and total work wear and projected it into the red carpet - so genius and so far reaching.

With fashion being as fickle as it is, how do you plan on staying relevant as well as growing during the constant changes you’re for sure to see?

I try to recognize my limitations, first and foremost. That sounds so negative, but I know that I’m only one person. I’m really good at some things and not so good at others, so I focus on what I love and do well. With that said, right now I do menswear. I don’t do shoes, or many accessories or home, etc etc. Since there is ’so much’ out there, stick to what you know and do it extremely well. While my vision for this project has always been large, I still have to be a bit realistic. I can’t do everything (yet) - my staff is pretty small. So, working with other leaders in their respective fields on collaborative items is a way to increase what I have to offer and work with some super cool people. For example, I have worked with DFC (an interiors company) to create unique limited edition items for fall 2007 (www.dfcasa.com and one of my favorite jewelry lines (In God We Trust) worked with me to create a special collection of jewelry just for Yoko Devereaux (www.ingodwetrustnyc.com). Collaborations definitely keep the brand relevant.

What aspects do you believe a fashion label needs to touch when trying to build a strong brand identity?

In my mind, if you’re going to spend every waking hour working on your own project, then your project should be an extension of who you are. That perspective/that story/that visual connection should be almost seamless in terms of your own aesthetic. That keeps the collection strong and on point. The difference between things, but ultimately, it’s going to be that emotional connection that you create with your customer. Providing your customer strong designs in conjunction that a perspective and story that applies to their life is so important. It keeps the whole project tied into an entire lifestyle.

Do trends fashion or non-fashion affect the way you approach the design of a collection?

That’s such a huge question. I’d be lying if I said that I’m completely non-affected by trends. I’d have to be living under a rock at the bottom of a pit to be totally exempt (although, sadly, I have a feeling I’d still get emails where ever I would be). At this point, especially with the far reaching nature of the internet, trends have permeated all facets of our lives - we have trends rammed down our throats at every turn. So, with that said, if I notice a trend that tends to be too present, I’ll walk away from it. Once the New York Time reports on it, it’s time to move it from the classification of a trend to totally ‘dead in the water.’ In terms of truly designing the collection, I’m more inspired by wearability, comfort and still maintaining a pretty ‘easy on the eye’ aesthetic. I still want my guys to look good. So, I tend to go out a lot and really watch what guys are actually wearing. I’m not a big fan of designing clothes that are seen as unwearable or irrelevant.

Are there any other labels you draw inspiration from or just really appreciate their work?

Most definitely. But it’s an amalgamation of bits and pieces from such a variety of individuals, Tom Ford’s work with Gucci and his ability to completely redirect a brand and make it relevant to a whole new generation of people. Calvin Klien took denim from work wear to the red carpet and showed everyone that being a successful designer does not require a couturier background. Helmut Lang made basic and everyday clothes (like t-shirts) interesting again. Karl Lagerfeld has relentlessly placed himself on the pulse of the ‘what’s going on’ and was one of the first to recognize the future ramifications of ready to wear. ‘A Bathing Apes success with ‘limited edition’ items, especially sneakers.   

For the business side of things what are some of your basic strategies you follow to make sure to run a successful business and maybe give us just a few new ways you may have come up with?

Are you implying that Yoko Devereaux is a success? Wow - thanks! Um, it all depends on what you define as success. I just do what I love - that’s all I’ve ever wanted. As simple as that sounds, it’s been a challenge to get to this point. Trust your gut more than anything, if it doesn’t feel right, don’t do it. It’ll totally bite you in the ass later. Don’t be impatient. I can’t believe that I just said that: I’m the most impatient person in the world. But it’s true. Push yourself, but don’t force it and understand every part of your project or business. When you first start, get to understand all of it, even if you hate it. Eventually, as you grow, the parts you hate (and suck at) will slowly be filled by other people. But you totally need to understand all of it, otherwise you can get totally scammed and en up on VH1’s ‘Behind the Music’…

How important was it for you to come out with a store?

The brand was around five years before we opened the shop. And I think it was the perfect time. It just felt: we wanted to make sure that there was at least one place in the world that carried the whole Yoko Devereaux collection. There were enough inquiries from our own customer, so we figured it was time. There are plans to continue to open up additional stores, but there is definitely no rush. We’ll take our time with it and feel it out as we go.

The high-end, luxury market seems to getting a big flourish lately and getting a real revive into it, many trying to define as well as redefine what luxury is, making it stand apart from your more lower-end mass consumer products. How do you feel about this new evolution into what luxury is and how it’s taking on a few new faces than its traditional one-sided appeal?

It’s totally not a surprise that the luxury market has raised the bar and is redefining itself. The word ‘luxury has been attached to everything and in my mind just means ‘overrated’. So, it makes sense that there is a redefinition of the word nomrally. Although, I don’t know if I’m totally convinced by where true luxury is going. I’ve never agreed that luxury has had to equate itself with price. Of course, in many situations, luxury can be expensive, but my impression is that true luxury also encompasses lifestyle, like having more space is a luxury. Having more time is a luxury. Having a made to measure a suit isn’t luxury to me. It’s simply you spending a lot of money. But having the time to have a made to measure a suit created for you: now *that’s* a luxury, for sure.

www.yokod.com